Diana Opoti

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Fashion Africa - a chat with with blogger Jacqueline Shaw

 

Africa Fashion Guide is the brainchild of Jacqueline Shaw, eco-entrepreneur, professional fashion designer, visionary with a big heart for Africa, its Fashion and International Development; she speaks to us about her coffee table book “Fashion Africa” and more….

Diana Opoti : You have built Africa Fashion Guide as a successful online source for information on African fashion, why this continent?

Jacqueline Shaw : I wanted to create a platform that looked to African fashion and the continent’s textile industry to the greater global textile industry. Africa Fashion Guide became a one-stop shop for fashion professionals, students, retailers, magazines, bloggers and consumers. This would be a great way to promote this industry and bring links between African designers, craftspeople, manufacturers and textile designers with UK and EU fashion design companies and consumer markets, as well as with retailers worldwide.

Diana: You recently published, Fashion Africa, a coffee table book on designers, what makes this book stand out?

Jacqueline: Fashion Africa is a visual overview of contemporary African fashion with an ethical perspective.

Diana: What inspired you to document your conversations?

Jacqueline I felt there wasn’t anything at the time on bookshelves, which showcased contemporary African Fashion. All existing material highlighted the traditional view of Africa and its textile industry. What what I wanted to show was the fun buzzing, contemporary, fresh and exciting African fashion industry that was emerging and blossoming.

Diana: Let’s talk about that, the growth of African Fashion? We keep hearing about the potential of Africa, what does it really mean?

Jacqueline:First thing – economic development. This growth will see more investment in fashion and design especially on the continent, amd not just retailers opening up in major cities in Africa but them stocking African designers.  I see more fashion companies collaborating and producing in Africa. Even as I say this we need to acknowledge that challenges of sourcing and logistics in some countries still need to be overcome…yet there is huge potential.

Diana: hmmm…yet we still affect global fashion trends, right?

Jacqueline: Every summer you see Safari collections by top fashion houses and brands – it’s the beauty of Africa, its resources, traditions, and culture; the way traditional clothing impacts designer’s collections and fashion editorials.

More importantly – textile stands out. There’s a move to recognizable “African print” on the catwalk by mainstream designers  - perhaps this could be a nod in appreciation of the impact the continent has made.

Diana: Speaking of African designers on the continent, what do they need to take their work to global retail?

    Jacqueline: I’d say more business acumen over design. Consider trends,  

markets, line architecture, price points and above all investment for production.

Diana: Jacqueline, you have a natural inclination towards sustainable fashion, is this practical for designers on the continent? I

Jacqueline: For a designer is starting up it is probably easier to consider sustainability but all designers can do so by simply firstly considering fair trade as a business practice, its principles and looking to managing their cut-offs and waste, where they source the materials they work with and their production process. Issues such as fair wages for workers and favorable working environments –sustainable fashion is very much about being considerate and responsible in sourcing and producing.

Diana: Will Africa offer the world the next luxury brand?

Jacqueline: You know what, THIS,  is the ultimate question if this is Africa’s way forward. Only time and hard work from the bottom up through the supply chain will we be able to see.

Diana: Three fashion brands from Africa that we should look out for?

Jacqueline: At the minute, we love Madam Wokie from Sierra Leone, Maki Oh from Nigeria and for footwear  are brands to watch in 2013

Diana: African inspired vs. Made in Africa, what’s your take?

Jacqueline: I am 100% FOR MADE IN AFRICA.

Diana: (not letting up) If so, which brands fit the tag, Luxury?

Jacqueline: DEOLA SAGOE, LANRE DA SILVA AJAYI, JEWEL BY LISA, ANITA QUANSAH, TO START WITH

Diana: For brands aspiring for this category, how can they achieve this? Jacqueline: Quality control is of most importance having great manufacturers who are reliable and believe in the vision is the only way - training people up to the quality they need is also an option 

Diana: Let’s talk about African Textile, what do you perceive its development and production on the continent?

Jacqueline:  This is something I am particularly keen on, I’d say loss of the value chain, and not much is sourced and produced and processed in Africa and the importation of textile goods from other markets such as Asia.  This as well as secondhand clothing industry is totally crippling Africa’s own textile industry. 

Diana: Writing about fashion and different designers is tough, being impartial and telling stories for equal representation, still, can you say you are especially drawn to any fashion brands?

Jacqueline:  mainstream labels would be from Vienne Westwood Gold to Alexander Wang to Junya Watanabe…this list is endless

Diana: Despite living in the UK, you travel the African Continent for your research and fashion weeks, what’s your favourite African Fashion Destination?

Jacqueline: I absolutely love Ghana. Its botanical gardens are amazing as well as the history of the Cape Coast. In 2012 I fell in love with Ethiopia - the history there for the continent is outstanding, such culture and promising opportunities…

Diana: What has African Fashion Guide been up to lately?

Jacqueline: We just launched our first conference on the continent through the ‘Fashion Africa’ conference in Nairobi. A forum that discussed ethical fashion, African fashion and the manufacturing industry. We also plan to we take a travelling workshop to schools in Kenya, South Africa and Nigeria to launch a fashion design competition with partners in Italy.

We also have a few fashion shows that we partner with for media support such as Ghana Fashion & Design week and Africa Fashion Week LA, as well as Miami Fashion Week Africa, and Africa fashion week Berlin on top of two AFRICA FASHION GUIDE programs we will reveal in later 2013.

Fashion Africa by Jacqueline Shaw

Eskado Bird is an up and coming fashion house whose creative is led by Doreen Estazia Noni. 

This is the collection - Revolution - launched at the Swahili Fashion Week. More a statement piece than anything - Doreen likes to challenge our notion of freedom and thoughts. Her label reads “This is not fashion it is Eskado Bird” 

Revolution was a bold move for this designer. Nude netting mesh as opposed to the delicate mesh everyone was showing on major runways - second, launching this in the conservative coastal city of Dar. But it wasn’t all show pieces - this collection showed off some feminine silhouettes with low open backs and her low-waist grunge pants.

Look up her 2013 collection as shown on South African Fashion Week here http://www.eskadobird.com/#!collections/vstc2=sa-fashion-week

mutuamatheka:

If anyone is interested in shooting or just viewing the city from the rooftop of KICC today…come join me. I shall be there from 5pm. It costs 150bob to go up there. Carry something warm to wear if you decide to come. And some soup (and some for me please) :). I’m kidding…don’t.

mutuamatheka:

If anyone is interested in shooting or just viewing the city from the rooftop of KICC today…come join me. I shall be there from 5pm. It costs 150bob to go up there. Carry something warm to wear if you decide to come. And some soup (and some for me please) :). I’m kidding…don’t.

Head Designer for Eskado Bird shows her collection - Revolution

ADELE DEJAK

While Africa enjoys the boom in apparel design, few designers stand out for their handbag and jewellery design the way Adele Dejak does.

Fast becoming the “must-own” statement handbag, Adele Dejak, is very much very much ethnic as it is contemporary. Speaking to the impressionable, individualistic woman and inspiring choice from vastly unique collections.

We love the interesting mix in fabrics and materials to make both her accessories and handbags - whether it’s brass and ebony, recycled brass on leather or textile and leather.

Designer Nelly Aboagye of the Ghanaian fashion house, Duaba Serwa, shows of feminine silhouettes with volumes for the Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Africa collection.

Definitely as designer to watch out for globally, Duaba Serwa is already a much coveted brand in her home town of Accra and has shown at top fashion weeks on the continent - Ghana Fashion and Design Week 2012 , Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Africa in Johannesburg where Dr. Precious Motsepe Moloi wore one of her dresses for the awards.

Focus on:Ethiopia’s luxury scene

Luxury fashion designer Mahlet Afework’s clothing label, Mafi is best described as chic meets funky. Her ensembles use the finest Ethiopian silks cut to modern silhouettes for both men and women apparel. 

Highlights from the 2012 FAFA Kenya.

We love the Doreen Mashika’s brand.  Doreen Mashika’s accessories stand out for being effortlessly glamourous across everything from women’s apparel, to delicate accessories, footwear,handbags and now swimwear.

Her stores, 236 & 237 Hurumzi Street in Zanzibar are a must-stop and shop spot (no pun intended) .

Nothing’s too much of a challenge for this designer, who’s sense of perfection rivals top luxury brands in the world.

It’s no wonder that Vogue named hers their most favorite store in Zanzibar. Doreen recently launched yet another line in collaboration with EDUN (london) 

What’s next Doreen in 2013?

X

What’s more, Doreen earns extra points for her ethical trade practices. Her clothes are manufactured by Soko Kenya, a fair trade workshop

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